Touch Around The Earth

The adventures of a massage therapist as she explores touch around the earth. From Chicago to Thailand, Nepal, India and Japan, she will be receiving massage, studying massage, studying and practicing yoga and meditation, and learning about how people around the earth stay healthy and happy.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

contrast








Varanasi is a city full of contrasts... life and death are right at your fingertips. It is the most auspicious place to be cremated for a Hindu, so people bring dead bodies there from all over India. And it is also full of life, with all of the colorful pilgrims who come there to have a dip in the sacred Ganges river, or visit one of the many Brahman priests for a colorful puja, healing ceremony. The dark ashes at the cremation grounds contrast with the bright fire from the evening arati ceremony on the river. And the filthy ascetics contrast with the radiant shine of the golden temple. The people in Varanasi can be super gentle and sweet, and some are incredibly pushy and rough.

I loved allowing myself to get lost, strolling through the tiny alley-ways that wound through this ancient city. These walkways are too small for cars, and traffic jams happen when a sacred cow and a motorcycle are trying to get through the same small space. Once, I heard chanting and looked up expecting a joyful parade like I saw in Rishikesh, only to see a family carrying a dead body on a bamboo plank, covered in bright gold cloth and flowers. The sunrise boat ride was perfect for sightseeing, with the morning light shined on the colorful saris of the women dipping in the river, the men praying and meditating, the children playing cricket, and the puppies playing in the sand.

I thought I would study some massage in Varanasi, but I found the massages that I had there to be simple and not very satisfying (next time I come to India, I will go to Kerela to study massage). Instead of massage, I decided to study Indian vocals! I love listening to, and singing along with Indian chanting music, and I sometimes sing back-up with the local kirtan group in Chicago, Devi2000). So, I thought it would be nice to learn more about traditional Indian vocals. My instructor promptly told me I needed to learn Harmonium at the same time I learned how to sing, so I learned the Indian scale (similar to Do Re Me...) and we were singing away! I took three lessons with him, and I can't say I learned much about vocalizing, but I had fun, and enjoyed the Harmonium! He was impressed with my pronounciation, as well as how fast I pickedup harmonium (thanks to 10 years of piano lessons!) And it was a nice way to pass the time on a hot afternoon.

Many people say a trip to India is not complete without a trip to the Taj Mahal, so I headed there for one day, and it was amazing. I loved walking through the entrance, with the feeling of awe that I was actually seeing the legendary building itself... live and in person. What a testimony to love! I met another solo woman traveler watching the last of the sunset light brush against the Taj, and she invited me to her rickshaw driver's friend's wedding! I quickly went out and purchased a Punjabi dress, pants and scarf, and we hopped into the rickshaw to see the wedding. It was nothing like what I have seen in the movies, except that the bride was covered in decorations, and the red sari was covering her face. She didn't appear to be a very happy bride, and I wondered if she was upset with the arranged marriage. My friend and I became the highlight of the party. There was no music being played, and no drinking, as it was a Muslim wedding. The sparkling, henna tatooed wedding party posed for pictures with us, and the kids all wanted to play with us. Some of the girls were giggling and laughing and pointing at me (I'm sure I made some kind of faux-pas, but I will never know what because they would not tell me). They made sure we were well fed, and we ate just like everyone else, with our fingers, standing up! Soon after we were done eating, it was time to go home! So that was it, no dancing, and we never saw the bride and groom together. It was still a great experience!

I spent one day in Delhi, soaking in the sights, and taking advantage of the opportunity to buy beautiful Indian textiles, and having fun with the barganing adventure, sending a box of gifts and goodies home. And I am now writing you from Kathmandu, Nepal where I will soon be on a heading for the Himalayan Mountains for some trekking. (And this time I will be hiking above the smog, and I will hopefully get a good view!) Just three more weeks on this amazing adventure and I will be back in the states!

1 comment:

  1. Trekking is one kind of journey, one you are on right now as I write you, up above the smog in the mountains as you told us in this blog. However, your journey has taken on so many different textures and flavors. Amazing. I love reading the stories. Thanks for all the writing, honey. Love, Mom

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